Stripes strike back, hair is shorn and Frankenstein’s monster is shaping shoulders: Welcome to spring/summer 2017.
Kate Finnigan and Emily Cronon guid you through the trends set to take over your wardrobe next season, fresh from New York, London, Milan and Paris shows.
Credit: Courtesy of Chanel
Labels like Missoni and Paul Smith have stripes sewn into their DNA, but lines of every shade and thickness were also drawn elsewhere. At Mulberry, school-blazer stripes were made into yes- blazers and matching Bermuda shorts. Try to get those past the headmasters. At Burberry were silky pyjama stripes, Pringle of Scotland *above* went multicolour, and traditional blue and white striped men’s shirts came in many variations, courtesy of Ports 1961, Stella McCartney and Sacai.
A few short-memoried designers tried to convince us we’re ready for the return of the 90’s hipster trouser but others were kinder to women’s bodies. A pleasing new trouser shape was roomy, high-waisted and either cuffed, elasticated or hemmed at the bottom. It’s the sort of thing that husband and sons may question – but, please, just carry on regardless. Excellent examples were at Gucci *above*, Chloe, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Armani and Celine.
The opposite of the little black dress is spring 2017’s BWD. Bold rather than romantic, whimsical or bridal, it’s mid-length, long or big-sleeved, and rounded at the shoulder. At Loewe it was gathered at the hem, at Stella McCartney it had a soft corset and at Celine it came with a high neck and tie waist *above* . Simone Rocha’s were like oversized Communion dresses – one in broderie anglaise with puffed sleeves. And a refined version opened the show at Daks.
No one missed the memo that the trench is the coat of the next season. London, New York, Paris and Milan united to champion it. Marni’s entire collection seemed inspired by the trench, and Bottega Veneta put Lauren Hutton in it *above*. John Galliano made it his opener at Maison Margiela. Sacai’s had a drop waist and Balenciaga’s had giant squared-off shoulders. Simone Rocha had loads of them and Moschino made a trompe l’oeil version with a hand holding the lapel.